Fashion Inspiration: 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2014 influenced by architectures of MVRDV and the products of Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec.

132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE SpringSummer 2014_6

The 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE focuses on the innovative scope of fashion along with the scientific research, environment awareness and mathematical precision in nature.  With the newfangled ideas into clothing, the brand was awarded with the Design of the Year 2012 Fashion Award as presented in the post  132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE – Design of the Year 2012 Fashion Award.

The latest collection for Spring/Summer 2014 is a composition of studies that spotlight new contextures of square, grid, frame, block that in the final result compose the concept of word “Unit”. The base for inspirational shapes was developed together with architectures of MVRDV and the products of Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec.  The notion of novel fabrics like new jacquard was composed of recycled polyester that gives the original spirit into the line unveiling complexity of garment. The collection consists of blocked –shaped origami inspired dresses, miniskirts, Bermuda shorts and loose pants.

Images are the courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE  Press Office in London

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Fashion Inspiration: Wearing Light by ISSEY MIYAKE in Spring/Summer 2014.


Multifaceted concept of light in nature empowered by the latest textile technology and crisp aesthetic of fashion evolved in awe-inspiring collection by ISSEY MIYAKE’s for Spring Summer 2014 .  The significance of the brand encapsulated sporty nonchalance with the definite graphic cut. The  refined craftsmanship melted in the constructions composed of  hybrid textiles and inventive technologies. Ever-illuminating light is the overwhelmed factor of the collection – from the resemblance of the starts on the pitch-black sky, the chalky  luminescence of the Moon through the bright-day rainbow created by sun rays. The presentation of light by ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2014 was unveiled in three openings.

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Live music by Ei Wada – Braun Tube Jazz Band


The first opening of the light illustrates the metallic shine of the stars accompanied by the dark sky at night. Through the set, the metallic clothing is made of manufactured leather covered with the film to enhance the metal shine effect. The common denominator of the starlight series is a new punching technique that exhibit stars on the tiny holes. Thanks to the  “Steam Stretch” technique the shape of pants, jackets and coats evinced the three-dimensional aspect.






The luminous white of the moonlight is condensed in the grid knit presentation accompanied by mesh tops and cotton grid structures. The grid-shaped texture is formed from stretch yarn technique that focuses on the weft and warp simultaneously. The hybrid nature of the clothing created fusion of matte and shiny translucent fabrics remaining lightweight and ethereal as well. Another worth-mentioning technique that unveiled the moonlight concept is spiral cutting used in open wave jacket and coats.  The outline of the distinguishing silhouette with the soft posture is the effect of hybrid approach that merges inventive yarns created on old-style knitting machines. The impressive transfer printing also skillfully bright up with the vivid palette.




With the beginning to the third phase, the sunlight is exposed with the three-dimensional coats covered with mesh in blue and red gradations. The choice of colors is not aleatory. The azure  sky infuses with the deep redness of the sunset that spread around the horizon. Along with the substantial mesh, the garment compose 3D movement feel of light and shade. The sunlight is also expressed by double layered cotton skirts and tops enriched with lightweight mode and color. The glow of sun that punctures from the whirling clouds is presented by double power of wave and cotton on the tops and bottoms. The lightweight cover reveals the hint of color while moving.





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Translucency is the feature that melts into the complex presentations and forms. It can be as subtle as smoke floating in the air or more vivid like sparkling minerals and ethereal like butterfly’s wings. Combining the most prominent factors of crystalline configuration the PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE for Spring/Summer 2014 season unveils the ethereality of fabrics. The airy textures are infused with the layered constructions and pleats. The palette of hues varies from blue sky shades to the vivid sparks of red. Enjoy this amazing collection of translucent inspirations.

Images are the courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE London Press Office.

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Check also the gallery for the whole collection of  PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING/SUMMER 2014:

Fashion Designer: Cecilia Ajayi depicts conceptual knitwear in “The Illusion of Perspectives”

Cecilia Ajayi  “The Illusion of Perspectives”

The emerging fashion designer Cecilia Ajayi distinguishes with the conceptual intake into the intricate construction of the knitwear craft. Her fascination about the cubist perception and architectural feel of the clothing are elaborately fused into the concept of her Graduate collection entitled “The Illusion of Perspectives”.

The complex harmony of the collection is visible through the detailed and well planned yet elaborate pattern of the knitwear clothing. With the three-dimensional sense, the garment transforms into the attention-grabbing fragmented structures along with the exceptional use of color palette and their infinite illusion of various perspectives to capture.

Focusing on the cubist art and its captivating characteristics like fragmentation, gradual color blends and multiplicity of viewing, Cecilia successfully endeavored to depict cubist art’s significance by means of the knitwear techniques composing an innovative collection of artistically-inclined, sophisticated and feminine clothing. The attention to detail merged with the creativity forms Cecilia’s signature style portraying her dedicated interest in conceptual fashion inspired by the sculptural and architectural influence. What is more, the collection illustrates both her credo in the craftsmanship of clothing and her endless ability to create three dimensional textiles.

After graduation from Brighton University Cecilia was the winner of numerous prestigious awards including ‘The Clothworkers Foundation Award’ for her knitted fabrics, as well as winning first prize in a collaboration project with Nano Force. She also worked for knitwear designer Juliana Sissions at the Victoria and Albert Museum. This precious experience assisted her in precise understanding how to express her outstanding fashion signature through the synergy of art and contemporary textiles with a wearable factor.


Images are the courtesy of Cecilia Ajayi

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Photography for graduate collection – Paul Butkus –

Check also the gallery with the “The Illusion of Perspectives” collection by Cecilia Ajayi:

Fashion Designer: Elise Kim – multidimensional handicraft and dreamy perception in “Epiphenomenon” for Autumn/Winter 2012/2013

Elise Kim is a fashion designer with the affinity to handcraftsmanship and its multidimensional feedback on the garment.  Since childhood she was fascinated with the fabrics, its texture and ability to transform on the clothing form. That is also why she puts a great importance on the quality of the materials that assists her in working on every new collection with the thorough research on shapes, fabrics, colors and prints.

The philosophy of  Elise Kim’s fashion design is based on the handicraft accompanied with the research into the new combination of various fabrics and self designed textiles. The signature is formed by the invention of self made fabrics and their unique and original compositions of the garment. There is also a great scope for experimentation on fabrics including weaving, knitting, laser cutting, embroidery, fabric manipulating, and digital prints.

Elise designs clothes that are based on her style preference and unique sense of exclusivity rarely find in most of the retail stores.  As the result we are introduced into the tough yet feminine silhouettes with the accents on the smart detailing, bold cuts and assortment of fine quality fabrics in overall. The women advocating the style of sleek edginess with the urbane geometry will definitely find their strength of personality in the clothes of Elise Kim.

The latest collection for Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 season is entitled Epiphenomenon as the first part of the trilogy that will be followed by two other collections for the oncoming seasons.  The line is inspired by the interesting perception of a dream as the side effect of a reality. The collection’s concept focuses on the fragmentation of reality when people start to fall asleep. The capture of such moment signifies with surreal abstraction and a feeling of blurred awareness. Transferred into different dimension of a dream, we start to see perplexing imagery.

Depicting the concept of these mysterious dream visions, the collection is conveyed by means of leather, wool, mohair, sheepskin and silk combined in an artistic fusion of texture and materials. The prominence of the line is emphasized by the embroidered sequins and original prints designed by Elise Kim. The femininity feel is defined by the refined tailoring and exclusive selection of fabrics accentuating the sophisticated statement on the whole image.

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Visit: Official Website

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Fashion Designer: Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2012 – “Mineral Miracle”

Complex harmony of the technological wit, Japanese craftsmanship and innovative approach indicate the main attributes of the impressive performance under the signature of Issey Miyake for Autumn/Winter 2012 season. Entitled with the meaningful theme of “Mineral Miracle”, the collection showcased the pleating revolution of the house with a new textile presentation called “Steam Stretch”. The concept of the collection depicted a gradual process influenced by the intrinsic power and the beauty of the minerals. Pleating diversity merged with the technology was cleverly accompanied with live performance music by Open Reel Ensemble.  The music impressions are composed in unique and original method visualizing the “Mineral Miracle” vibe featuring sounds from sewing and weaving machines in addition to live stream sampling.

The inventive nature of the “Steam Stretch” is a mixture of creative approach and advanced techniques composed in pre-designed and programmed procedure. The fabrics composed from silk and stretch yarn have highly transformative characteristics thanks to the application of the steam finish. As presented on the prelude of the fashion show the squares of fabrics, apparently insignificant are artfully modified into sinuous costumes. The twin concept of “Mineral Stretch” differs only with the composition of wool and stretch yarn. With the same steam method the woven fabrics shrunk to create an undulating framework unveiling a hybrid effect of pleat and knit type.

Stepping in to the phase of the “Diamond Cut”, A-POC method takes the reigns over the fabrics formulating a graphic wave resembling the crystallization of quartz. The airy impression coats are equipped with pockets in a graphic cut forming a catchy collage.

The use of the special machine enhances interesting “Ore” stage showcasing fine jersey outfits altered with three different modes of thickness. The details are embroidered with ornament motifs with vastly textured parts of a fine jersey. The same technique is used on the woven jacquard suits celebrating the Crystal phase with multi textured shell of thread compositions in varying thick layers.

Stratum” stage is expressed by the layering wave technique mixed with the rapidity of hidden colors on the 3D effect of woolen waffle coats. Oversized construction is accentuated with the organic feel of newly polished stone thanks to the ceramic bottoms. Finalizing the miracle of the nature the part of the “Gemstones” is introduced with the alluring structure of rich woolen coats. Inspired by the hidden contrasts and textures of the minerals, the styling acquires interesting statement by the feature of captivating coverings recalling the vision of colorful impressions on the water.  The elements extract from the waist pockets or collars.

Kept in the constant suspense either from the collection development or the music impressions, I regretted even more that I couldn’t be on this fashion show despite the invitation. :/

Special thanks to Issey Miyake Press Office for help and assistance.

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Fashion inspiration: Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2012 “Bloom Skin” inspired by flower’s life.

Romantic focus on the flower’s life and body mapping concept of layers, sheers and tribal prints are mixed with excellent tailoring and dreamy palette of spring colors merged with vibrant splash of hues on Issey Miyake’s catwalk for Spring/Summer 2012 season. As the name of the collection indicates “Bloom Skin”, the line is a metaphor of flower’s existence with the reference to the woman nature – beautiful, ethereal imagery of a flower that may also be extremely strong and cruel with the hidden poison. Every single silhouette from the collection is a dedication to Japanese artisanship merged with ultramodern technology influence resulted in the affinity to the nature. The experimental concept of body mapping and cut outs with silky fabrications were accentuated with colour diffusion hair, imaginative headpieces and artistic accessories – the result of the collaboration with milliner Christophe Coppens and jewelry artist Tzuri Gueta.

The catwalk is initialized with the stunning piano compilation accompanied with laser rays. The overview of the collection symbolizes the progress of flowers lifeline starting from the initial bud phase with the powdery nudes of triacetate-mixed fabric. The headpieces have a crucial role in presenting the graduation of buds opening.

Transforming into stem form there is a juxtaposition of pale tones with architectural silhouettes and strong fabrication – the idea originated from the structure of plants. Apparently, fragile stem encapsulates loads of strength with well – built structure under the microscopic view. Double thick fabrics as well as yarn techniques merged with sheer smoothness are the designer’s response to this phase.

Petal phase creates the body-mapping concept mixed with the sporty sophistication feel. Translucent textures are the result of artisanship taken from traditional dye house in Kyoto. The fabric knit composed from two types of fibres is involved in a special process in order to create a double effect of sheer and graphic prints on the fabrics. The graphic designs resemble tribal tattoo patterns with the affinity to the sporty style thanks to the bold colours and eye-catching leggings made of flexible fabric and mesh.

Following the phase of blossom, the collection develops with the cast of pastel outfits enriched with dynamic cuts and petal-like forms ready to unfurl with their inner beauty in the core. Another interesting spotlight into the blossom phase is visible in the clustered seams formed with colored lace taping representing atomic view on the veins on the leaf. Tzuri Gueta designed the accessories for blossom phase maintained in the flower concept.

Bloom – vibrant prints and voluminous forms in Issey Miyake Spring Summer 2012 collection depict the final stage of the flower’s growth that amazes both with vigor and with softness. The line of jumpsuits and dresses mesmerize with movement attributes through the billowing forms, tranquility of drape and subtle gradation of hues.

This is the first collection under the reign of the new creative director of the house –Yoshiyuki Miyamae who previously worked in the brand for 10 years. The line seems to be a successful continuation of theIsseyMiuyake’s signature with ethereal feeling yet down to earth function. As Miyamae proves in the collection’s appearance, he softened the edges stamping his own aesthetic on the brand. Highly inspired by the bloom phases, Miyamae examined the whole process of the cell textures and flower growth with the microscope tools. Thanks to that he was able to grasp the genuine concept of the flower bloom.

Worth to mention is the sentence mentioned in the press kit information: “We wish to work in a way that gives everybody involved in making and wearing these clothes dreams and hopes”.

All images are the courtesy of the brand Issey Miyake

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