Tribal glamazons of the cityscape – this is my first and entirely deep impression of the Spring/Summer 2014 collection of Ioanna Kourbela entitled under the exact to the subject name “The Ethics of Aesthetics”.
There is a strong factor of crisp white esthetics interlaced with clean cuts, mild and earthy shades that are implemented with the ethnical factors of laser-cut elements and pleats. The garment seems to be designed for full comfort in femininity and ubiquitous lightness. Some bare components like open back dresses, transparent fabrics and asymmetrical lines definitely stands for the balance to pouring forms and waterfall shapes. Such a conceal-reaveal concept. What is more, the collections is accentuated with the small post bags, cute headbands and platform footwear ans flat leather sandals.
“The Ethics of Aesthetics
If the body in reality is a garment of the soul,
the inner being cannot take any other clothes,
only extensions of the body.
… and if the fabrics, colors and pulses
succeed to reach a naked body to morality,
you can say that it is summer.”
Images are the courtesy of Ioanna Kourbela post Office.
Multifaceted concept of light in nature empowered by the latest textile technology and crisp aesthetic of fashion evolved in awe-inspiring collection by ISSEY MIYAKE’s for Spring Summer 2014 . The significance of the brand encapsulated sporty nonchalance with the definite graphic cut. The refined craftsmanship melted in the constructions composed of hybrid textiles and inventive technologies. Ever-illuminating light is the overwhelmed factor of the collection – from the resemblance of the starts on the pitch-black sky, the chalky luminescence of the Moon through the bright-day rainbow created by sun rays. The presentation of light by ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2014 was unveiled in three openings.
The first opening of the light illustrates the metallic shine of the stars accompanied by the dark sky at night. Through the set, the metallic clothing is made of manufactured leather covered with the film to enhance the metal shine effect. The common denominator of the starlight series is a new punching technique that exhibit stars on the tiny holes. Thanks to the “Steam Stretch” technique the shape of pants, jackets and coats evinced the three-dimensional aspect.
The luminous white of the moonlight is condensed in the grid knit presentation accompanied by mesh tops and cotton grid structures. The grid-shaped texture is formed from stretch yarn technique that focuses on the weft and warp simultaneously. The hybrid nature of the clothing created fusion of matte and shiny translucent fabrics remaining lightweight and ethereal as well. Another worth-mentioning technique that unveiled the moonlight concept is spiral cutting used in open wave jacket and coats. The outline of the distinguishing silhouette with the soft posture is the effect of hybrid approach that merges inventive yarns created on old-style knitting machines. The impressive transfer printing also skillfully bright up with the vivid palette.
With the beginning to the third phase, the sunlight is exposed with the three-dimensional coats covered with mesh in blue and red gradations. The choice of colors is not aleatory. The azure sky infuses with the deep redness of the sunset that spread around the horizon. Along with the substantial mesh, the garment compose 3D movement feel of light and shade. The sunlight is also expressed by double layered cotton skirts and tops enriched with lightweight mode and color. The glow of sun that punctures from the whirling clouds is presented by double power of wave and cotton on the tops and bottoms. The lightweight cover reveals the hint of color while moving.
Translucency is the feature that melts into the complex presentations and forms. It can be as subtle as smoke floating in the air or more vivid like sparkling minerals and ethereal like butterfly’s wings. Combining the most prominent factors of crystalline configuration the PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE for Spring/Summer 2014 season unveils the ethereality of fabrics. The airy textures are infused with the layered constructions and pleats. The palette of hues varies from blue sky shades to the vivid sparks of red. Enjoy this amazing collection of translucent inspirations.
Images are the courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE London Press Office.
Check also the gallery for the whole collection of PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING/SUMMER 2014:
The finesse of lightweight fabrics emphasized with a punching technique and graphic intensity make a sporting statement on the ISSEY MIYAKE PRE-SPRING 2014 collection. Sporty yet classy sense is enhanced with the irresistible feeling of comfort along with the rock chic as well. The unveiling of countless holes create an optical illusion that amplifies spectrum of layers highlighting the power of color and overwhelming softness.
Images are the courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE LONDON Press Office.
CHECK ALSO THE WHOLE COLLECTION OF ISSEY MIYAKE PRE-SPRING 2014 :
Focusing on the cycling lifestyle that I really enjoy on my daily basis, I am very pleased with the concept of the Issey Miyake Men Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The menswear line unveils a contemporaneous rendition of ‘life with a bicycle’ elevating the paper clothing as a new dimension of style. Let alone the paddling trend itself that is clearly observed within the last years, the focal point of fashion by Issey Miyake goes further than just direction to the sporty attitude. The paper structure of this marvellous collection is composed of Japanese Washi paper that has a great adhibition in everyday clothing since Ancient times. What is more, the fashion house developed a washable paper textile that corresponds to the bicycle riding with the forms, designs and detailing presented in the collection. The clue is hidden in a crafty attitude that highlights innovative use of fabrics encapsulating the sophisticated feel and comfortable wit simultaneously.
Unveling the pleat miracle of PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE for the 20th anniversary, we are introduced into the visual concept of “delicious” . Enjoy the electrifying work of Taku Satoh.
As he explains:
For 2012, the 20th anniversary year of PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE, we have adopted the visual concept of ‘delicious’. No theorizing is needed the moment you see the clothes and you feel a certain, ‘wow that looks delicious, I want to wear it!’
Delicious things, is our concept for PLEATS PLEASE.
The word ‘delicious’ came into my mind when I was thinking about the planning of visuals for the year and this word, which is evocative of so many things, kept jumping about excitedly in my head. It’s an onomatopoeic word – anything that looks visually tempting and exciting, we think of as ‘delicious’.
This year we plan to release many scrumptious and ‘delicious’ visuals, one after another to tempt you!
Art Direction: Taku Satoh
Design: Shingo Noma
Photograph: Yasuaki Yoshinaga
Copyright at 2012 ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
Images are the courtesy of Issey Miyake London Press Office.
The quintessence of the ISSEY MIYAKE PRE-SPRING 2013 collection depicts the fusion of prints filled with color. The inspirational source of the collection is encapsulated in a diverse palette of birds’ plumage from around the world – starting from bold exoticism of the tropical climate to the earthy moderation of the northern hemisphere.
Based on such fascinations, the fashion house continues on the Japanese finesse signature with the experimentation on textures, innovative constructions and revelation of new pleat merging all the attributes with the varied essence of colors and hand drawn prints. Such dynamic mixture of fascinations and modernity provides an artful evaluation of collage compositions, brush stroke forms and rough lines that become a solid base for prints development in the collection. The stunning effect is a genuine hand crafted outcome that wouldn’t be possible with the use of digital methods only.
Apart from the rich coloration and diversification of prints, the fashion house of Issey Miyake introduces a new composition of a Jacquard pleat containing stretch yarn in their Pre-Spring 2013. The fabric originates from the innovation process that enables a free variation on the width of the pleat structure that can generate beautiful forms. The flexible characteristics of fabrics can freely harmonize with the contours of the body.
TAKE A LOOK ON THE WHOLE COLLECTION OF ISSEY MIYAKE PRE-SPRING 2013 :
Images are the courtesy of ISSEY MIYAKE Press Office London
Ranya Mordanova & Janice Seinen Alida Vogue Turkey, March ’12
The Roaring Twenties, was definitely the time of a new woman – free, self-confident and extravagant vixen releasing from the tight rules and corsets. The woman who finally could abolish the old-fashioned vision of a home-hidden woman with career centered ambitions and liberty of mind. The Jazz Age was some kind of a fresh breeze of opulence that allowed women to experiment with a new fashion – flapper silhouettes with androgyny twist, Orient style and headwear detailing, swinging fringe embellishments, sharp knife pleats, sensual transparency and fluidity of silk. The decade was unfortunately placed between cruelty of First World War and upcoming Great Depression that deemed the self-esteem of the 1920s.
Daga Ziober in Vogue Germany, January 2012
The style of Jazz Age with all the lavish attributes like golden embellishments, sharp pleats, vivid graphic prints, feathers and ostrich hair detailing together with fringed hems is also ever returning fashion trend initialized by Ralph Lauren. That is because the designer was responsible for costume project for “Great Gatsby”, the movie adaptation from 1974 with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow as the protagonists.
“Great Gatsby” (1974) Mia Farrow and Robert Redford
The great revival of The Roaring Twenties on the Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks results from the remake of the “Great Gatsby” movie adaptation by the director Baz Luhrmann that is going to be released in late 2012. The silhouettes of low waist flapper dresses, loose pants, feminine beanies and wrap headwear, glamour evening wear were the most sophisticated yet common images on Gucci, Etro, Ralph Lauren, Chloe, Christian Dior any many renowned fashion houses and brands.
Along with the bold graphics and Art Deco inspirations on the clothing the beauty on the catwalks focused the factors typical for Jazz Age – heavy makeup of the eyes – forming Cleopatra signature or short bob hairstyles with baby fringe styling, Interesting aspect is shown by the fashion editorials as well. There are numerous interpretations depicting Jazz Age bliss infusing the ultramodern approach with the splendor and timelessness of the bygone 20s.
Complex harmony of the technological wit, Japanese craftsmanship and innovative approach indicate the main attributes of the impressive performance under the signature of Issey Miyake for Autumn/Winter 2012 season. Entitled with the meaningful theme of “Mineral Miracle”, the collection showcased the pleating revolution of the house with a new textile presentation called “Steam Stretch”. The concept of the collection depicted a gradual process influenced by the intrinsic power and the beauty of the minerals. Pleating diversity merged with the technology was cleverly accompanied with live performance music by Open Reel Ensemble. The music impressions are composed in unique and original method visualizing the “Mineral Miracle” vibe featuring sounds from sewing and weaving machines in addition to live stream sampling.
The inventive nature of the “Steam Stretch” is a mixture of creative approach and advanced techniques composed in pre-designed and programmed procedure. The fabrics composed from silk and stretch yarn have highly transformative characteristics thanks to the application of the steam finish. As presented on the prelude of the fashion show the squares of fabrics, apparently insignificant are artfully modified into sinuous costumes. The twin concept of “Mineral Stretch” differs only with the composition of wool and stretch yarn. With the same steam method the woven fabrics shrunk to create an undulating framework unveiling a hybrid effect of pleat and knit type.
Stepping in to the phase of the “Diamond Cut”, A-POC method takes the reigns over the fabrics formulating a graphic wave resembling the crystallization of quartz. The airy impression coats are equipped with pockets in a graphic cut forming a catchy collage.
The use of the special machine enhances interesting “Ore” stage showcasing fine jersey outfits altered with three different modes of thickness. The details are embroidered with ornament motifs with vastly textured parts of a fine jersey. The same technique is used on the woven jacquard suits celebrating the Crystal phase with multi textured shell of thread compositions in varying thick layers.
“Stratum” stage is expressed by the layering wave technique mixed with the rapidity of hidden colors on the 3D effect of woolen waffle coats. Oversized construction is accentuated with the organic feel of newly polished stone thanks to the ceramic bottoms. Finalizing the miracle of the nature the part of the “Gemstones” is introduced with the alluring structure of rich woolen coats. Inspired by the hidden contrasts and textures of the minerals, the styling acquires interesting statement by the feature of captivating coverings recalling the vision of colorful impressions on the water. The elements extract from the waist pockets or collars.
Kept in the constant suspense either from the collection development or the music impressions, I regretted even more that I couldn’t be on this fashion show despite the invitation.
Special thanks to Issey Miyake Press Office for help and assistance.