Fashion Focus: V – Partings in Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks

There is a breath of fresh futuristic air while considering some new hair tendencies from the Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks. Ultramodern hairstyles were visible on the fashion shows of Yoshi YamamotoDavid Koma and Ann Valerie Hash. The common denominator is presented through V-formed partings expressing innovative feel.

 David Koma highlighted the tribal significance either by apparel or the uncommon hairdo giving sporty elegance to the geometric ponytails. The new spin of the pin-up define both precision and individuality.

Yoshi Yamamoto focuses on the avant-garde side including the hairstyle for his Spring/Summer 2012 catwalk. The V-parting was assessed with pin-up back knots resembling horns. Very edgy yet sophisticated hairstyle was a perfect fulfillment for the concept of the show – architectural deconstruction being the specialty of Yamamoto’s trademark.

Ann Velerie Hash goes slightly different with her catwalk hairstyle forming Y parting decorated with the crown – like shape from the back.

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Fashion inspiration: Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2012 inspired by Richard Sierra circled sculptures.

Urban sportif chic with geometrical cuts and asymmetric constructions form the main theme of Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2012 catwalk. Metropolitan sportswear seems to be one of the most emerging trends for the oncoming season of summer, maybe because of the massive sport events that will happen on 2012. The creative designers’ duo from Helmut Lang label decided to focus on the glam of the active wear with the addition into 90’s fused with the artistic geometry of Richard Sierra Sculptures. As they explain: We wanted to try to do a few different volumes and shapes. We often combine different textures, different elements. We were also playing with contrasts, colours and textures playing off each other.(

Their sharp cut biker jackets with fluttering lapels compose interesting stories with hi-lo hem dresses, drape skirts and subtly appearing leggings as well as harem pants. Asymmetric bra midriff base hidden under the layers of sheer, lightweight fabrics and biker outwear highlighted the idea of relaxed unconstrained elegance with healthy vigorous lifestyle. That does definitely enclose with the feeling of comfort and practicality in wear and edgy chic look in one. The polished sleek back hairstyles also underlined the idea of full sport image.

 Puritan nature in the palette of colours depicts monochrome sets of pale alabaster, white, black and vivid dash of the sulphur yellow.  Despite that, the collection reveals rich inspirations around contemporary art of Richard Sierra with abstract brush strokes, geometrical forms and collages.  At the end of the catwalk presentations, there is an accent on leather and chunky embroidery together with sequins that emphasize the suggestion for evening wear looks.

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Fashion inspiration: Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2012 “Bloom Skin” inspired by flower’s life.

Romantic focus on the flower’s life and body mapping concept of layers, sheers and tribal prints are mixed with excellent tailoring and dreamy palette of spring colors merged with vibrant splash of hues on Issey Miyake’s catwalk for Spring/Summer 2012 season. As the name of the collection indicates “Bloom Skin”, the line is a metaphor of flower’s existence with the reference to the woman nature – beautiful, ethereal imagery of a flower that may also be extremely strong and cruel with the hidden poison. Every single silhouette from the collection is a dedication to Japanese artisanship merged with ultramodern technology influence resulted in the affinity to the nature. The experimental concept of body mapping and cut outs with silky fabrications were accentuated with colour diffusion hair, imaginative headpieces and artistic accessories – the result of the collaboration with milliner Christophe Coppens and jewelry artist Tzuri Gueta.

The catwalk is initialized with the stunning piano compilation accompanied with laser rays. The overview of the collection symbolizes the progress of flowers lifeline starting from the initial bud phase with the powdery nudes of triacetate-mixed fabric. The headpieces have a crucial role in presenting the graduation of buds opening.

Transforming into stem form there is a juxtaposition of pale tones with architectural silhouettes and strong fabrication – the idea originated from the structure of plants. Apparently, fragile stem encapsulates loads of strength with well – built structure under the microscopic view. Double thick fabrics as well as yarn techniques merged with sheer smoothness are the designer’s response to this phase.

Petal phase creates the body-mapping concept mixed with the sporty sophistication feel. Translucent textures are the result of artisanship taken from traditional dye house in Kyoto. The fabric knit composed from two types of fibres is involved in a special process in order to create a double effect of sheer and graphic prints on the fabrics. The graphic designs resemble tribal tattoo patterns with the affinity to the sporty style thanks to the bold colours and eye-catching leggings made of flexible fabric and mesh.

Following the phase of blossom, the collection develops with the cast of pastel outfits enriched with dynamic cuts and petal-like forms ready to unfurl with their inner beauty in the core. Another interesting spotlight into the blossom phase is visible in the clustered seams formed with colored lace taping representing atomic view on the veins on the leaf. Tzuri Gueta designed the accessories for blossom phase maintained in the flower concept.

Bloom – vibrant prints and voluminous forms in Issey Miyake Spring Summer 2012 collection depict the final stage of the flower’s growth that amazes both with vigor and with softness. The line of jumpsuits and dresses mesmerize with movement attributes through the billowing forms, tranquility of drape and subtle gradation of hues.

This is the first collection under the reign of the new creative director of the house –Yoshiyuki Miyamae who previously worked in the brand for 10 years. The line seems to be a successful continuation of theIsseyMiuyake’s signature with ethereal feeling yet down to earth function. As Miyamae proves in the collection’s appearance, he softened the edges stamping his own aesthetic on the brand. Highly inspired by the bloom phases, Miyamae examined the whole process of the cell textures and flower growth with the microscope tools. Thanks to that he was able to grasp the genuine concept of the flower bloom.

Worth to mention is the sentence mentioned in the press kit information: “We wish to work in a way that gives everybody involved in making and wearing these clothes dreams and hopes”.

All images are the courtesy of the brand Issey Miyake

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Fashion Inspiration: Iris van Herpen Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture inspired by the scientific photography of Steve Gschmeissner.

Iris van Herpen Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture
Human Flea - photography by Steve Gschmeissner

Iris van Herpen is young and very talented fashion designer that infuses her scope of creativity blurring the vision between fashion, art and technology. She successfully joins machinery with the tribute to the traditional craftsmanship and precious handwork.  Her collections are the presentations of the light vision of avant-garde that successfully conquers Parisian Haute Couture. As the graduate of the ArtEZ Insitute of the Arts in Arnhem in Netherlands in 2006 followed by thriving intern in Alexander McQueen, she decided to launch eponymous label in 2007. After that her indisputable talent and individuality on the fashion stage has been recognized at international level and awarded by professionals including Dutch Fashion Awards, RADO Young Designer Awards. She became also a member of the esteemed Chambre Syndical de la Haute Couture.

Continue reading “Fashion Inspiration: Iris van Herpen Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture inspired by the scientific photography of Steve Gschmeissner.”

Leather statement: Preview from the Fall 2011 Part I

They say:“better late than never” – I planed to write such post about leather statementon the Fall/winter 2011/2012 catwalks since late August. Nevertheless,Fall/Winter is on its full chase to the middle of the season and it seems to bea perfect timing for release as a December roundup.
Leather isone of my desired subjects in fashion because of its dignity, edginess andtimelessness – check

Vintage Leather ind. – Vintage Journey with Fashion time machine.

 I am absolutely under a great impression of the latest modificationsin fashion of this traditional yet timeless material because of its versatilityand adaptability. It is one of few statements giving the impression of strengthand chic to the look. There is also a great room for fetish influences as well.There are designers who used the leather like a tool sculpturingdifferent forms, releasing numerous messages and giving a great significance totheir own trademark. These designers’ work makes my heart meltingbecause of their approach to fashion treating it like a form of expression notlike a chase of the latest trends.

AnnDemeuleemester Fall/winter 2011/2012
Ann Demeuleemester created a poetic vision of modern army of amazons, bird-like creatures and mythological fauns armored in leather ensembles, feather headpieces and goat furs and chains. The show was accompanied with the melancholic melody of Erik Satie’s piano compositions entitled “Trois Gymnopedies” though the finale of echoes of Black Swan by Tchaikovsky . There is a great range of unique leather pieces – musketeer gloves, wedge boots, leather belts with bandoliers with feathers instead of bullets, leather leggings, and deconstructed lacing girdles and one-of-a-kind collars.


JunyaWatanabe Fall/winter 2011/2012
The catwalkof Junya Watanabe presented the sculptural modifications of the leather jacket –hybrids of cocoon shapes, cape designs, coats, suits and leather dresses withNew Look theory behind. The carving concept of the leather is also stronglyvisible in other parts of ensemble – textured tops, voluminous dresses, drapedplaysuits, crinkly pants and skirts.


Fashion inspiration: David Koma’s spring 2012 in Tribal amazement

The relationship between futuristic body conscious garments and tribal influences was the main theme of David Koma’s spring 2012 catwalk presented during London fashion week. The designer, known for his innovative approach to architectural forms, presented a very interesting body con silhouette. The collection constructed with the devotion to top to toe tribal amazement, reveals all body patchwork attributes including body art motifs and tattoo prints.
The sharp silhouettes bear a striking resemblance to Polynesian warriors. The line brings captivating perspex fabrication layers and geometrical statements of body-garment connection, leather detailing, kiltlike pleats, and structured sandals. The collection even if minimal with monochromatic white versus black composition accentuated with pink, bright yellow, turquoise, petrol green, sustains a very significant message behind it.

The rest of my article David Koma’s future tribe you will find on

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Fashion inspiration: Chiaroscuro in Marios Schwab spring 2012

For spring 2012 Marios Schwab, the adherent of strong and powerful feminity, managed to introduce the contrasting division of women – independent on the outside yet accentuted with softness and intellect at the roots. As he explins of the collection:
“I have been thinking about this really strong woman (…). I want to translate that in a way that is all about an independent exterior but at the same time kind of soft and still very feminine. Ultimately the woman that I like is an intellectual, that is my character and the person I am looking to dress. Someone that believes in fashion and in pure design.”
Schwab wants to emphesize the necessity of pure design, that is why he puts an effort on ex perimental transformation of classic silhouettes. The distinctive phenomenon of the collection forms optical illusions, paying an intimate tribute to body as the surface of the ensemble.
For more of my article please check Experiments in femininity: Marios Schwab on

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Fashion inspiration: Crushed-car sculptures by John Chamberlain in Mary Katrantzou SS’12

Mary Katrantzou SS’12 inspired by John Chamberlain’s sculptures explains:
 “I couldn’t do trompe l’oeil again,” Katrantzou said. “So I was thinking — what would it be like if I mixed something metallic with florals? I’ve never touched the natural world before.” 

Some of the looks from Mary Katrantzou SS’12

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Fashion inspiration: Graphic prints and body art tattoos in Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 influenced by Kim Joon. The marvelous collection by Narciso Rodriguez unveils the translucent influences turning the peculiar art of Kim Joon as a wearable attitude.

enjoy 🙂

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More work of Kim Joon :

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012
Photos: Marcio Madiera/firstVIEW

SELF – Digital Editorial of Intimate Fantasy

Lately I’ve got a message from Mark Cullum with interesting fashion film.

SELF is a minimalisic yet captivating fashion film focused on intimate mystery – the connection between body and clothing. This body conscious concept is emphasized in the movie by a subtle voyeurism treating ensembles as a second skin. The video portrays a digital editorial featuring some of the opening looks from David Koma S/S 11 collection. The garments with powder sheer reflections are inspired by Russian ballet costumes and fragile silhouettes.  Pleated, mini dirnld skirts, skin – tight cuts of dresses, delicate fabrics and intricate panels of python skin accomapany perfectly with the sensual vibe of the video.

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Video : Courtesy of Mark Cullum

Video Credits:

Featuring Iona Levy
Make up Charlotte Watts
Hair Stacey Collins @ The Great Hairdressing Group
Music Mount Kimbie
With thanks to David Koma

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Subtle geometry by Agnieszka Maciejak – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland

Agnieszka Maciejak is a Polish fashion designer with distinctive graphic style that brings strong fashion statement. As the graduate of graphic design, Maciejak transforms her artistic fascinations of forms and mathematical simplicity in the fashion world. Her sophisticated style is designated for individualists that combine strong femininity with modern elegance.

Her latest collection presented in FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland is the continuity over Maciejak’s inspirations for pure fashion mathematics. Splendid geometrical leggings, contrasting colours and composition of hard and soft fabrics, ultra short dresses portray the vision of self esteemed, experimental yet chic and elegant woman. The designer usually takes delights in black shades but in this collection she approaches a new step by implementation of pure white colour. The effect gives a fresh impression of purity and contrast combination. As the designer explains she decided to use white as an interesting background, contradiction for other colours and the symbol of innocence.

Images VIA Kimono Exclusive